In the humble opinion of The Eye, this archaeological site ranks right up there with the Pyramids of Giza (watch for a forthcoming Eye Feature Focus on the Pyramids) in being one of the wonders of the world. Let your imagination run wild as you tread the paths of the Roman debauchers on their way to the brothel or to take a bath. Marvel at the culture that must have flourished when you visit the library and the amphitheater! This place represents so many different facets of Ancient Greek and Roman culture that one wonders how the Dark Ages ever came upon Europe.

There are several things to consider on your visit to Ephesus - however you get there. Allocate at least an hour or two to take in the modern town itself and wander through the back streets up to the fortress on the rock where you will find the tomb of St. John the Baptist as well as a great view of the rolling coastal plain towards the Aegean Sea.-descend the other side and try to find the Temple of Artemis (ignore the signs - all that is left is a bunch of old rocks but don't be disappointed - the best is yet to come.)

A 20 minute walk back along the road will deliver you to the entrance to the Ephesus site. Avoid the tourist buses and taxi cabsand take a pony and cart ride to the back entrance of the site - this way you will avoid having to double back on yourself as you traverse the entire city site. Besides the air is invigorating and the chat of the driver extremely entertaining!. Haggle over the price as this is part of the fun. It should be no more than about $5 and take about 25 minutes including the break to visit The Caves of the Seven Sleepers about halfway up.

The Legend of the Seven Sleepers states that this is where seven young Christian men and their dog were hiding from their persecutors, were found and murdered during the reign of Roman Emperor Decius in the mid 3rd century, and were resurrected 200 years later. As a result Christian believers wanted to be buried here and a graveyard of over a thousand graves, tombs and monasteries was formed on this site.
At the summit of the hill you will find the site entrance - about $5 and The Eye recommends you pick up a map or a guide book. From here walk up the hill where you will be met by a tremendous vista of the whole site stretching down the valley toward the coastline. (see map) Depending on the time of year be prepared for the herds of tourists with their tour leaders!. You will find every nationality represented and it can be quite useful to eavesdrop on the occasional group to find out about a particular location's history. We preferred to wander around casually as these groups seem to be on a whirlwind timetable and don't really seem to have time to savor the atmosphere and marvel at the civilisation that once thrived here.

From the entrance the first point of interest is The Odeon a small amphitheater for about 1500 people built into the hillside and almost perfectly preserved. Built around 200 AD it saw the performances of plays and concerts, probably under cover as there is no drainage system. From here carry on up the hill past the Palace of the Council (PRYTANEION) and theVarius Baths.

Visit the beautifully restored Houses of the Slope - and walk around the atrium and pool admiring the mosaic floor and walls while imagining the toga parties that went on here for up to 400 years!

Soon you will arrive at the top end of Curetes Street and this is where your breath will be taken away. A considerable amount of restoration has been done to recreate what the city was all about and this is what distinguishes Ephesus from any other set of ancient ruins in the western world. As you walk along the paved street - notice the ruts caused by carts and chariots of old, passing by the baths, merchants houses and temples of worship - it is easy to let your mind wander to imagine how this place must have been centuries ago.

Look for the footprint carved into the street marble to show the way to the brothel! View the magnificence of the Baths of Skolasticia and admire the ingenuity of the heating system which fed a swimming pool, hot bath (caldarium) and warm bath (tepidarium) and cold bath (frigidarium).

The Temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan and Pollio all represent the various timelines in the evolution of this once thriving city. Ever wondered why the Nike Sports Shoe was so named? You can find out right here - where there is a beautifully carved relief of the winged goddess of victory.

When you reach the foot of Curetes Street you are at the junction of The Marble Street which constituted the main street of the City. Here stands the breathtaking Library of Celsus which dates from 135 AD. 9 steps take you up to the salon of the library where you will see the niches in the walls where books were kept and the remains of low Ionian pillars that supported the reading tables. At the back of the library you can climb down the stairs and follow the winding narrow corridor to the tomb containing the beautiful white marble sarcophagus of Celsus.

As you exit the library turn left onto the Marble Street through theMazeus and Mithriadtaes Gate and follow it to the junction of The Harbour Street (Arcadian). At one time the harbour was much closer to the city but as time evolved the rivers silted up pushing access further back so that the ocean is now a considerable distance away. The Harbour Gate - still standing in all its elegance, is inaccessible due to these marshlands Much of this area is undergoing extensive excavation and one wonders what new treasures will be unearthed over the next few years.

Immediately behind you is perhaps the greatest spectacle of all Ephesus -The Great Theatre - continuously excavated year by year the theatre had a capacity of 25,000 people. Still used occasionally for major concerts - Sting and Diana Ross played here over the past 2 years ( which must have really disturbed the Gods!) and the magnificent acoustics and view have inspired several more classical performances.

If by now you are a little tired and in need of a break (particularly of the natural kind) - venture into The Roman Latrines for a sit down and a good think! This must have been a very interesting place at one time - can you imagine the latin jokes that must have been cracked as the wind whistled through this communal lavatory! The Romans certainly knew how to build good sewers - and its quite intriguing to explore the drains around here!





Last but not least, continue on up the hill to your right and find the Stadium Gate. From here there is a great view of the remains of what was once a 229 x 295 metre stadium where the citizens of Ephesus witnessed horse and chariot races and gladiator battles. Built during the reign of Emperor Nero ( the one who fiddled while Rome burned) between 54 and 58 AD, the arena slopes had a capacity of 13,000 spectators.